Wednesday, April 8, 2015

Sri Lanka: Colonialism, Minimalism, and Massages in Galle Fort (#sorrynotsorry)


From the chatter on Twitter, a trip to Sri Lanka isn't complete without a stop in Galle - the fourth largest city after Colombo, Kandy, and Jaffna. But the most fascinating aspect about the city is its history as the main port on the island, which had first been colonized by the Portuguese in the 16th-century, then by the Dutch in the 18th-century and - of course, last but not least - the British in 1796. This is important to remember as you stroll through the charming, narrow streets of Galle Fort today, as the architecture here is a fascinating example of the Portuguese style and remnants of British colonial rule still remain, as evidenced by this red post box we spotted outside one of the many souvenir shops targeting tourists.

When we arrived to the Fort after our beach stay in Thalpe, temperatures were soaring. Thankful for the sun, but desperately wanting the relief of air conditioning, we hurried into the reception of The Fort Printers, an 18th-century mansion restored into a boutique hotel - one of many which lined the streets of the fortress. Van-loads of school children in starched white uniforms were being led by teachers along the fortress walls on school excursions - some shyly smiling, and others, boldly waving. It was a very sweet scene.


I was immediately taken by the modern and minimalist aesthetic of The Fort Printers - I'd been looking forward to our stay for quite some time.

We stayed in the Church Suite, a spacious room housed in the main quarters, just off one of the streets. First of all, I fell in love with our key, of all things.






And then the room, with its dreamy four poster bed and mosquito net (which I was beginning to find quite romantic by this point!).



And, rather surprisingly, the bathroom, which I decided I wanted for my own house someday. The polished concrete and open space worked well with the high, vaulted ceilings. The skylight at the pitch of the roof lent a bright, airy feel.


After checking into our room, we braved the torrential downpour outside (which only lasted about 20 minutes or so!) to duck into some souvenir shops, where I bought vintage postcards and knick-knacks for friends, before taking a short walk along the fortress walls for views of the sea.

The next day, we stopped into the Dutch Reformed Church within the fort's walls and I obsessively read every tombstone/plaque in English that explained how the first settlers perished (drowning at sea, "the fever", etc.). I tried to imagine moving to a far-flung tropical destination with a view to conquer it, while having no immunity to new and (at that time) incurable diseases - and couldn't.

After slipping some rupees into the small donation box at the church, we wandered next door to the library, with its distinctly colonial features. A man was slowly turning the pages of a newspaper at the table, but it was otherwise empty. The smell of dusty tomes and the sight of the shelves reminded me of my college library, and I felt as though I was intruding - even though we were not. The library appeared to be suspended in time; a very surreal experience.

So here's where things got a little bit lame ... it was so hot and we were so tired ... we decided to opt for ayurvedic massages at the luxurious Amangalla resort next door instead of making the 3-hour long trek around the fort walls on foot.

Please don't judge me.

We'd been to Amangalla for a drink the previous evening and loved its colonial interiors - the fans whirring above our heads and beautiful views onto the verandah, which made you feel like you were in an episode of the Channel 4 series, Indian Summers


So much so, that we asked for the spa menu and booked head massages for the next day, which we thought would help us dust off any remaining London-related cobwebs and fully relax into holiday mode.

It worked.


A few minutes before our treatment, we dipped into this private hydrotherapy pool and I shrieked while ducking myself into the ice cold plunge pool before heading for a quick stop in the sauna and donning my robe.

John and I are secret spa junkies. I can't think of a hotel we've ever booked in the UK that didn't have a full spa - it's the ultimate way of relaxing and unwinding. My dream came true a couple of years ago when we booked a stay at this spa resort in Da Nang, Vietnam - where the pool villa price included two spa treatments per day. Per day, folks. Imagine if the most difficult decision you had to make that day was whether you should get a manicure or another Thai massage? I know, it's a struggle.

But I digress.

Those massages at Amangalla? The best I've ever had. The best John has ever had (and he's not even a fan of massages! I know! What's wrong with him?! When I'm feeling generous - which is not often - I'll be all, "Would you like a shoulder massage?" And he'll be like, "[long pause] Could do. Okay, yeah, sure." !?!??!). We emerged feeling completely blissed out (I couldn't actually open my eyes and ended up stumbling around for my clothes afterwards), with all the knots worked out in my back and shoulders ... and ready for lunch, which we took on that gorgeous verandah.


Just the light bites we needed before we headed off to our next stop in Balapitiya.

So, our antics in Galle might have ruffled some culture vultures' feathers, but in the end?

It was so worth it.

#sorrynotsorry
SHARE:

23 comments

  1. This looks like a fabulous trip; the hotel-bedroom & bathroom- looks divine.

    K.

    www.wonderingthrough.co.uk

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for stopping by, Kelsey! It was a whirlwind stop, but still so much fun. :)

      Delete
  2. OMG, I'm' so with you, I'd opt for massages over long walks around fort walls! Though to be honest I'm not a spa junkie and would probably go for a long lunch and bottle of wine instead of trudging around in the heat. Lovely post :)
    Lots of love,
    Angie

    SilverSpoon London

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha! Love it, Angie. YES - a long lunch and a bottle of wine would have been the perfect way to whittle away the rest of the afternoon at Amangalla.

      Delete
  3. Ahhhhhh this sounds so heavenly! I loved Amangalla, though I didn't get to their spa.

    Also, hotel with two spa treatments a day? Oh hello....

    Lauren xx
    The Lifestyle Diaries

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Your afternoon tea there looked amazing! I thought of you when I was in Galle ... it was funny to think that we've both been in the same place!

      And that hotel in Vietnam ... I KNOW. I was SO sad when that trip was over! Ha!

      Delete
  4. I'd take the walk on the walls over the massage ... I find the whole spa experience horribly embarrassing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Oh dear, Ruth! Yes, the walk looked to have some lovely views. It was really busy even when we walked a small portion of it, so very popular!

      Delete
  5. Oh my!! Sounds like you guys really made the most of the ever important RELAXING aspect of being on holiday.

    Sounds like a dream!!

    Gemma
    Faded Windmills

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You're so RIGHT, Gemma. I felt guilty at first, and then I realized that the point of this holiday was to "treat" ourselves after some trying times this past year ... so to stop feeling guilty and just enjoy it!

      Delete
  6. No judgement here, I would have chosen the massage as well. I get fed up if I have to be out walking in the heat for too long

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha! Good to know, Stacey. I felt like I was about to pass out!!!

      Delete
  7. I would have judged you if you didn't opt for the massage actually! Sounds incredible. I've been for lunch at The Fort Printers but the rooms look so amazing...and that bathroom! Wow! I love Galle Fort, it's got so many special nooks and crannies that you can discover something new every time you go.

    Polly xx
    Follow Your Sunshine

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Haha - so glad to hear that you're on Team Massage, Polly ;-) xx

      Delete
  8. What a hotel room! That key is something else! And as for the bathroom - I'd be soaking in that tub for hours before hopping out and enjoying a shower (and then back to the tub)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It was really well designed, Amy! Yes - I totally wish we had had more time to do just what you described above :)

      Delete
  9. This is probably a cliche, but I really feel as if I've just had a lovely tour! And I have to say, I am thrilled that I have a fellow tombstone reader... I spent a good few hours in the British cemetery in Corfu Town (also in blistering heat) on my last trip there. Have you been there? I think you'd love the different influences and architecture of the city, including a cricket pitch - in use - in the main square, and the old town shops. Oh, and there's a vegan baklava bakery!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks so much for reading, Laura - I've never been to Corfu! I would love to go. So many place on my list. Now I want some vegan baklava ... ;)

      Delete
    2. I really think you'd love it! And yes, now I want baklava too... Lx

      Delete
  10. Oh my, that hydrotherapy pool looks like a dream come true.

    Sarah | travelsrilanka.co.uk

    ReplyDelete

© angloyankophile

This site uses cookies from Google to deliver its services - Click here for information.

Blogger Template Created by pipdig